We are toooooo tired toto post tonight.  I'll catch up tomorrow from Kenya.

Ulala salama

Daily update attached.....off to bed after a very long day.

23 August 2011

Weather: clear blue skies, cool morning with a slight breeze warming fast as we moved toward the river.

After a wonderful breakfast, we departed 0730 for the Mara River. With four days at Kogakuria, I decided that another day at the river would be worthwhile. Memories still fresh with the excitement from yesterday's crossing, everyone was amped and ready for a repeat. Our first herd sighting was just east of the Kogatende Air Strip. The light was perfect and we were in an excellent position; however, the herd could not make up its mind and soon moved away from the river and into the woods. Moving a few kilometers eastward along the river, we soon observed a huge herd moving towards us on the other side of the river. We decided to make a quick run for a good position further east. While we were tracking the herd, we lost visual contact with them as they disappeared into a valley between the river and the far hills. We retreated to our camouflaged hiding place for our morning coffee, tea and ginger snaps. Just as we were finishing our morning treats, we spotted a massive herd heading toward the river at a dead run. Kileo and I picked several prime photo positions depending upon which way the herd crossed. Camera settings checked and re-checked, we were ready. Due to ever-changing light conditions and shooting positions, I suggested that everyone use the auto-ISO feature and concentrate on focus and framing. We also decided who would be shooting video versus stills just so everyone knew how others would be shooting. As we watched the “wildebeest ballet,” as Lori called it (up and down the bank, spin, run, walk, back to the water, etc....), one brave beest stuck his nose in the water and it was all over. Before our eyes, out of control chaos erupted again and again as the crossings started. This overall crossing lasted for more than an hour and Kileo estimated the herd to be about 300-400,000 in size. It was the largest crossing that he has seen in some 30 plus years of professional guiding. For me, it was nearly continuous shooting filling up the D3s buffer a number of times, something I have never done before. I will have my work cut our for me in editing when I return, as I shot nearly 800 images today.

We returned to camp for a wonderful hot lunch. Time to write, download and look at the map for our next adventure. Around 4pm, we journeyed deep into the Kogatende kopjes for some wonderful landscape shooting during the golden hours.

What a day it was in the northern Serengeti.........a special place that we have decided to rename as the “Kileo Kopjes” in respect for his love of the area. Walking back to our Nyumba after dinner, we were treated to clear skies and a wonderful view of the Milkyway. Tomorrow we are off to the plains to find more Cheetah and hopefully Rhino.

Two images for the day today, one by Steve as he caught a hippo munching a young wildebeest that was annoying him. There is a reason most animals give hippos a wide berth. Although the young calf made it to shore, he was mortally wounded.

Off to bed........ afya and lala salama

Due to limited connections, I'm having to attach the update as a html file.
Cheers

22 Aug

Weather: cool and overcast with patches of blue.

Another wonderful day in the northern Serengeti. Our camp is known as Kogakuria, and is some 20km south of the Kogatende Air Strip. Sitting on a hill top, it offers commanding views of the valley to our front. Today was about photographing the wildebeest migration as they crossed the Mara River. Although I purposely scheduled this location more than a year ago to take advantage of the migration crossings, I learned from my time in Kenya, that photographing river crossings is somewhat of a crap shoot. It's all about being at the right place at the right time; toss in a considerable amount of hope and the blessings of mother nature and there you have it. Breaking camp at 0730, we made our way through the Bologoja Valley searching the kopjes for lions and leopards. The lions we found we too far away so we quickly moved on, promising ourselves that we would return the following day for some killer landscapes. As we crested the last hilltop, all we could see was wall to wall wildebeest lined up on the far side of the banks of the Mara River (Lat: 1°34'57.21"S Long: 34°56'24.756"E Altitude: 1442m). Kileo and I quickly discussed sunlight, shooting angles and located what we thought would be a perfect shooting position. To ensure we did not impact the crossings, Kileo positioned our trucks in a camouflaged position which we held until the crossing started. OMG, it was great. Thousands of wildebeests decided to cross in a manner that could best be described as wild chaos and we were expertly positioned to capture it all. After photographing several crossings, we pulled back for mid morning coffee & tea and plotted the rest of our day. Soon we could see hundreds of thousands of wildebeests running toward the river from the highlands, creating a huge dust storm. We decided to follow them in hopes of another crossing. While the herds went further north into a well known Kenyan crossing, we turned our focus on a huge herd of elephants that mad their own crossing...... what a show. For the crossings and most of the day, our photo trucks were the only vehicles around or within sight. It was like having our own private movie preview. What a day. Tomorrow we are off to another crossing in the morning, returning to the kopjes for golden light in the evening. As we ready for our eventing meal, we are treated to a killer African sunset. With dark clouds and lighting in the opposite direction, I am sure we will have rain tonight.....I will sleep well with the sounds of rain on my tent.

Afya and lala salama

Cell data coverage is very limited up north.  I have attached a text file and a photo that tells the story of the day.  You may have to save the file to your computer before you can read it.  I hope this works.

Another killer day in the Serenegti.  Within 15 minutes of breaking camp we were photographing a mother leopard and her two cubs at the Seronera swamp area.  30 minutes later a mother Cheetah and two young cubs on one side of the road and dancing ostriches on the other side of the road; the choices that one must make.   Off to the Moru Kopjes (Moru meaning old rocks) to visit Ngong Rock and the Maasai rock paintings.  Kileo game us a great history lesson on the area.  Passing Chapati Rock and traveling thru Area 16, it was back to camp for  early reprise.  Cleaning camera gear, downloading images, and packing for our depature tomorrow, all necessay tasks that must be performed.  Tomorrow it is off to Kogatende in the northern Serengeti.  As a slight breeze sets in, most likely bringing another round of rain, I present to you guest images from several of my clients.  I hope you enjoy them as much as I have enjoyed having them on safari.
KM: cheetahs; LK: Steve & Randy; SK: little bee eaters.

Kwa afya and lala salama

It was the morning of the cats. We were camped at Sero X-tra SCA, which put us in the middle of the action with only a 15 minute drive.  I started off the morning helping my clients with spot metering and auto ISO techniques.  These came in very handy as we soon found ourselves shooting a pair of leopards in trees against bright skies.  With the Maasai kopjes as a distant backdrop, we continued to work the Seronera swamp area where we found a serval cat and four cheetahs (mom and three cubs).  Back to camp for a wonderful lunch and a two hour break to put our feet up.  At 3pm, we were off to my favorite hippo area, Retima Pools.  The light turned out to be very harsh at the pools, so we decided to do some birding on the way back to camp.  With hot showers ordered and the sent of rain in the air, we hit the camera tent to review the days captures before the down poor hit.  It will be a great sleep with the rain storm hitting the tent.

Tomorrow, we are off to another exciting day, as we travel to Gong Rocks and the Meru Kojpes.

Kwa afya and lala salama

After waking to a heavy mist and a great breakfast, we said goodbye to our Ngorongoro camp staff after a great day in the crater.  Leaving 7523 feet, we started our lengthy descent to the floor of the Serengeti.  Heavy mist and a dense fog made driving difficult and time consuming.  What should have been a 45 minute drive, took some two hours.  Following a fuel stop, we were off of Oldupai Gorge and then onto our camp in the Serengeti near Serenara.  Since today was a travel day, we took very few photos however, the day was not without some special sightings including a mother leopard and cub.  Although the conditions were great for viewing, there were difficult good photography.  Arriving at our camp, we were greeted once again by the wonderful staff of Thomsons Safaris; they are such special

Here is another shot from our Maasai Village visit on the crater rim.

Kwa afya and happy photo'ing.

Started the morning with an early pre-dawn drive into the crater and it certainly paid off - we spotted a lioness ready to pounce on a limping zebra. Within a minute amidst dust and commotion we spotted the downed zebra and lioness; others were on their way to enjoy the spoils - hyenas, jackels and other scavengers waiting for the lioness to feast and leave. Too bad for them as the big male, four cubs and two more lionesses arrived. Papa lion decided to drag the zebra to the privacy and cool shelter of the trees by the river but the cubs wouldn't let go so Papa dragged the zebra and cubs still hanging on across the road right in front of us - what a treat!   The Munge pride was in great shape and well fed.

Moving toward the LaRai forest, we found a cheetah, several elephants, and two rhinos.  Early return to camp to clean our camera equipment and repack for  tomorrow we head north to the Serengeti - off to a great start.

Kwa afya and happy photo'ing.

Trying to write these posts on my cell phone keyboard is killing me.  Just so you know, the lop was really a 'loo'.  I know where Lebanon is but if you locate Lemanon, drop me a note.

Stepping out of the truck, I was greeted by my first name from Herman (office manager), Peter & Gilbert (dining room managers).  It was great to see my old friends again.  As soon as we were seated for a traditional Maasai buffet, they wanted to know when I was returning for a longer period.  Peter reminded me again that he still thinks I look like John McCain, I'm not so sure.

Before entering the farm, a quick stop at the 'lop with a view', and what a view it was.  I recall these facilities being under construction during my last visit.

High on the Rift Valley Escarpment, Gibbs commands a view like none other.  The great Rift Valley runs some 8,000 kilometers, from Lemanon to the Zambezi River.

The new Chef and assistant manager (Peter) spoke of an upcoming renovation which will include a new kitchen and dining room.  Typical of Gibbs, always looking for improvements and striving for excellence.  I'm not surprised they won safari lodge of the year by Conde Nast Traveler.

As we leave the farm for the crater, I say goodbye to my friends and I look forward to a return visit to a very special lodge, Gibbs Farm.

Les afya and happy photo'ing